The annual Couture present, held from June 8-12 on the Wynn in Las Vegas, is the designer positive jewellery trade’s most vital shopping for occasion, and a bellwether for traits. At this yr’s present, the big variety of luxe jewels on show shared a through-line: Designed and produced in the course of the third yr of the pandemic, they gave the impression to be infused with an unmistakable sense of optimism (present market turmoil however).
Beneath, we highlight 10 new deeply private and wildly bold collections (together with one meta-collection) that caught our eye at Couture. Some are the work of established designers, whereas others belong to proficient newbies within the jewellery scene. Collectively, they symbolize a contemporary, even daring, perspective on the place the positive jewellery trade is headed.
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Anna Maccieri Rossi
Anna Maccieri Rossi
A longtime designer for Swiss watch manufacturers, together with Cartier and Jaeger-LeCoultre, Anna Maccieri Rossi’s 4-year-old assortment of bijou is steeped in allusions to time. Utilizing mother-of-pearl as her canvas, the designer, based mostly within the Emilia Romagna area of Italy, showcased pendants handpainted in lacquer with swirling watercolors and dreamy cloudscapes that known as to thoughts the work of the Belgian Surrealist René Magritte. “The thought is to speak about time,” says Maccieri Rossi, “however another way.” musexmuse.com/designer/anna-maccieri-rossi
ARK Effective Jewellery
ARK Effective Jewellery
Los Angeles-based designer Ann Korman’s years-long coaching in yoga, meditation and Vedic astrology, amongst different non secular disciplines, helped lay the groundwork for her new Awakenings assortment, which celebrates the promise implicit in a dawn: “Beginning, development, and new beginnings of all types,” says Korman.
Combining sapphires in shades of pink, yellow and orange with plique-à-jour, an historical enameling approach that makes use of cells of enamel to create a beguiling stained-glass impact, the gathering brims with standout items, such because the 18k gold bombé-style Dawn ring, that includes 7 carats of hand-cut sapphires in graduated hues.
Equally distinctive are the gathering’s two 18k gold and plique-à-jour assertion necklaces: One pays homage to the Om image, which is engraved on the again facet to acknowledge “how every little thing within the universe is linked,” says Korman, whereas the Horizon necklace conceals a Gayatri mantra written in Sanskrit on the again. Meant to be spoken because the solar rises, the phrases are “stated to have the vitality to meet all needs,” in response to Korman. Sure, please! arkfinejewelry.com
After touring the American Museum of Pure Historical past’s “Stunning Creatures” exhibition in 2021, San Francisco Bay Space-based designer Lauren Harwell Godfrey got here away impressed “to use my design language to animals,” she tells Robb Report.
The Menagerie, the capsule assortment of one-of-a-kind animal jewels she introduced at Couture, options her signature geometric patterns and gemstone inlay in a spread of divine creatures she selected for the qualities they possess.
The 18k gold Snail pendant, for instance, embodies endurance and perseverance — serving as “a shiny reminder to sluggish your roll,” as Harwell Godfrey lately quipped on Instagram. The spectacular Crab necklace, centered on a gem-set crustacean clutching a white pearl with its articulated coral claws, is a totem of safety and prosperity. And the double-headed 18k gold Snake bracelet, that includes heart-shaped emerald heads, diamond eyes and inexperienced turquoise scales, represents rebirth and transformation. harwellgodfrey.com
It’s no exaggeration to recommend that Yasmin Tjoeng has essentially the most fascinating background of anybody you understand. Half-Australian and part-Chinese language, the jewellery designer grew up splitting time between Australia’s Gold Coast and Papua New Guinea (PNG), the place her father’s household has been in enterprise for the reason that Sixties.
Now based mostly in Singapore, Tjoeng based her high-end jewellery label, Maison Tjoeng, in 2017. At Couture, she debuted the Arcadia assortment, an homage to her idyllic childhood in Wewak, the capital of PNG’s East Sepik province, situated alongside the shores of the Bismarck Sea.
“Up till now, I haven’t needed to design items impressed by my stunning nation — it’s nearly too sacred to the touch,” Tjoeng tells Robb Report. “That is only the start of my homage to PNG and the best place to start out is the infinite days I spent on the outlying islands — some tiny and a few with dominating mountains — all with dense jungle, pristine sands, clear azure waters and reef teeming with life.”
The 18k gold shells and coral motifs that determine so prominently in Maison Tjoeng’s Arcadia and Arcadia Atoll traces are symbols of the treasures Tjoeng found when she was a child combing PNG’s seashores, in addition to a nod to the standard adornments of a tradition that continues to enchant her. maisontjoeng.com
Alyona Kiperman based her Ukrainian positive jewellery model, Nomis, in Kyiv simply earlier than the beginning of the pandemic. “And once we opened our first retailer in Kyiv, after only one month, the struggle begins,” she informed Robb Report throughout Couture’s preview occasion in Las Vegas. “We dwell within the coronary heart of the storm.”
Regardless of the early setbacks, Nomis — the title is a play on Kiperman’s Hebrew title, Nomi, and her daughter Simon’s title spelled backwards — confirmed its 18k gold assortment of convertible designs at Couture.
Now based mostly in Geneva, the place she and her household sought refuge from the struggle, Kiperman is dedicated to her imaginative and prescient of making modern diamond and gem-set jewellery that simply transforms to fit your temper. A hoop turns into an ear cuff, a voluptuous gold bracelet converts right into a choker, a stick pendant turns right into a daring ear pin — nevertheless you fashion it, Nomis’ jewellery is dramatic, fashionable and undeniably fierce. nomis.jewellery
Few jewelers are able to channeling the vibe of New York Metropolis within the Seventies higher than Renato Cipullo. The Italian designer moved to the Huge Apple in 1971, following within the footsteps of his older brother, the late nice Aldo Cipullo, whose timeless designs (Cartier’s Love bracelet, for one) are nonetheless bestsellers.
Exhibiting at Couture for the primary time, Cipullo, with the assistance of his daughter, Serena, confirmed his Revival Assortment of archival designs in celebration of the corporate’s fiftieth yr in enterprise. Laced with influences that recall a youth spent on the Italian seaside, the gathering introduces a brand new era of bijou lovers to Seventies hits comparable to Cipullo’s Mattone pendants of laborious stones hand-carved with the phrase Love in a alternative of languages, 18k gold jaguar head pendants with dramatic laborious stone claws and 18k yellow gold Duomo ring set with a frosted rock crystal cabochon. Bonus: Nearly every little thing within the assortment is customizable. renatocipullodesigns.com
The Singapore-based positive jewellery model State Property marries (fairly actually) the skills of award-winning jeweler Lin Ruiyin and industrial designer Afzal Imram. Recognized for its subtle 18k gold and pearl jewels, the label lately reimagined its jewellery on males in a playful marketing campaign that includes guys sporting its pearl pendants, signet rings and assertion necklaces, together with a beguiling gold necklace of half-moon-shaped diamonds providing a contemporary tackle the standard line necklace. At Couture, the model additionally confirmed a collection of stylish new engagement ring kinds that includes diamonds framed by enamel, the luxe materials du jour. thisisstateproperty.com
For its second look at Couture, Studio Renn, the Mumbai-based design studio based by husband-and-wife Rahul and Roshni Jhaveri, constructed upon themes and strategies it launched in 2021. The Cacti assortment of princess- and French-cut diamonds set between serrated edges and held inside folds of blackened gold, for instance, now features a necklace, earrings and ring with Cacti’s signature serrated edges, however set in rose gold accented with diamonds.
In the meantime, the model’s new Fish diamond line bracelet, earrings and pendant necklace characteristic alternating “scales” of gold and diamonds. Half of a bigger physique of labor that Studio Renn is making ready to unveil on the finish of July, the designs spotlight the distinction between the severity of the scales and the fluidity of their motion.
All the things that Studio Renn creates includes a extremely singular tackle supplies and strategies (for instance, within the new Puffball Voids collection of jewels, the Jhaveris have left the casting “pores and skin” on the steel as a meditation on the notion of incompleteness). In different phrases, come for the model’s stunning, distinctive jewels and keep for the soulful, philosophical conversations they encourage. studiorenn.com
Initially from Uzbekistan and now based mostly in Florida, Nigora Tokhtabayeva drew on historical symbols to create her new 18k Fairmined gold line of sculptural jewellery. Combining the hook-shaped knot that represents Inanna, the traditional Sumerian goddess of affection and fertility, with the knots normal by the Japanese-American artist Isamu Noguchi, Tokhtabayeva’s favourite sculptor, her Tabayer assortment is the modern-day girl’s reply to armor.
“The thought is to mix completely different symbols of safety,” says the mom of 5, who used the event of Couture to debut a spread of bubbly rose gold kinds set with champagne diamonds. tabayer.com
The Radiance by Couture
Ashley Thorne; Sara Bautista; Zulaikha Aziz
The Radiance by Couture is greater than a single assortment; it’s a meta-collection consisting of 13 capsule collections by 13 of essentially the most thrilling BIPOC designers working in jewellery right this moment.
Two years within the making, the initiative represents the end result of the inaugural mentorship program of Couture’s Range Motion Council (DAC), fashioned in the summertime of 2020. Due to a partnership with De Beers, every designer obtained $10,000 and diamonds from the miner’s Code of Origin program. (The gems bear a singular code that assures patrons they’re pure, conflict-free and originated at a De Beers mine in Botswana, Canada, Namibia or South Africa.)
The BIPOC designers whose work is featured within the Radiance by Couture are from the U.S. and U.Okay. They embody: Angely Martinez, Ashley Thorne (A.M. Thorne), Jules Kim (Bijules), Kassandra Gordon (KLG Jewelry), Khadijah Fulton (White/Area Jewellery), Lola Fenhirst, Lorraine West, Maggi Simpkins, Melanie Eddy, Olivia Shih, Sara Bautista (Widespread Ceremony Provide), Viviana Langhoff and Zulaikha Aziz (Mazahri).
Jules Kim Jewellery
Whereas all of the collections incorporate diamonds in fashionable, modern settings, their inspirations — from earthworms to DJ music, from Afghan tradition to Josephine Baker — are as distinctive because the designers who made them. Rise and shine, certainly. thecoutureshow.com
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